Author: Deepa Srinivasa, Chief Gemologist, GSI
The history of jewelry in India dates back to ancient times, as jewelry is an essential part of Indian culture and style. Often referred to as the “meadow of gold and precious gems,” Indian jewelry represents diverse designs that reflect the nation’s many cultures and customs. In India, jewelry has evolved to represent a sign of wealth, power, and status.
India is renowned for being the origin of some of the world’s most celebrated diamonds, including the Hope and Kohinoor.
Indian royal families own some of the most exquisite historical gems and jewelry. The Jewels of the Nizams of Hyderabad State are among the most extensive and expensive collections of jewels in present-day India. The Patiala Necklace of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh ranked as the most expensive necklace in the worldor even the Patiala Ruby Choker of Maharani of Patiala, made of platinum, rubies, pearls, and diamonds. Another historical example of grand jewelry from India is the Jeanne Toussaint necklace, formerly belonging to the Maharaja of Nawanagar. This necklace, adorned with natural diamonds the size of baby oranges, showcases the immense scale of Indian jewelry. The jewelry was so large that it could be dismantled to create separate, smaller individual pieces.
Heirloom jewelry, passed from generation to generation, is often thought to contain natural gems. This is a common misconception. Simulants, synthetics/laboratory-grown, or treatments have been in existence for centuries. Certification of jewelry is necessary because jewelry frequently transitions within families as part of the family legacy. Understanding what you own, through scientific analysis, helps preserve that legacy and significance of the jewelry.
At GSI, we receive diverse antique and modern jewelry, often heirlooms or large and ornate pieces crafted for significant occasions like weddings. These pieces also have sentimental value. The intricate designs, details, size, and craftsmanship of Indian jewelry fascinate us at GSI, where we specialize in testing diverse designs set with unique, rare, and large-sized stones.
Testing such jewelry poses a challenge, especially when dealing with pieces of substantial size and stones placed in diverse orientations. Testing such large pieces is complex due to the size of the jewelry and gems and orienting them on instruments to get accurate results. GSI’s expertise lies in precisely testing each stone in the jewelry, no matter what size, ensuring accuracy, timely delivery, and no damage considering the intricate styles. Our state-of-the-art instruments enable us to maintain an accuracy rate exceeding 99%, giving our customers peace of mind.
Another fascinating category of jewelry we receive at GSI is Jadau-Polki jewelry, “Jadau” jewelry; the word “Jad” literally translates to being embedded. Embedded with Polki diamonds (thought to be the earliest cut diamonds in the world, non-faceted with irregular shapes) emeralds, rubies and pearls crafted meticulously.
With increasing technological development and demand for such pieces, Polki diamonds are manufactured in a laboratory set-up, possibly to make such pieces affordable from a price point.
Using state-of-the-art technology, GSI offers advanced screening services that can accurately identify laboratory-grown diamonds in Jadau-Polki jewelry.
We have a vast network of laboratories across India, which allows us to examine different types of jewelry with various designs, craftsmanship, and styles. We have the expertise to handle any jewelry, whether embellished with diamonds, precious & delicate gemstones, or traditional Polki. We not only have years of experience but also the technical knowledge& expertise to assess any ornament properly and professionally.
Our capabilities are constantly improving and expanding, and we have a rich database of unique findings and complex case studies that make us stand out globally. We are committed to transparency, expertise, and excellence in gemological testing.
GSI follows the highest standards of jewelry evaluation that are as rigorous as the legacy craftsmanship we respect and admire daily.
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