The most classic and essential category of a fine jewelry collection is the necklace. Human beings have been adorning the neck with jewelry since the dawn of civilization. A sophisticated fine jewelry wardrobe needs certain types of necklaces to be considered complete.
The classics may remain somewhat consistent over time, but the styles and the rules for how to wear them are continually changing. We began our ultimate guide to a modern fine jewelry collection with earrings. Now, we turn to the necklace. Here we will focus on which necklace types are essential to ensure you have the perfect accessory for almost every outfit.
“I love the process of creation and truly enjoy making all types of jewelry. But the necklace is my favorite piece to design,” says Giuseppe Picchiotti, founder of the Picchiotti heritage brand. “The necklace is a unique chance for a designer to bring attention, individuality, and sparkle to the face.
Whether it be an everyday wear pendant necklace or a statement bib, I get the opportunity to celebrate the grandeur of nature’s superlative gems and at the very same time reflect brilliance and light up onto the facial features. For me, it is a double pleasure! I hope it is for the wearer, as well.”
As we explore the various types of necklaces below, keep in mind that well designed jewelry is often gender-fluid. Necklaces can be worn equally by all genders in the contemporary fashion world.
Short necklaces have ruled many runways and red carpets in recent seasons with celebrities and couture designers focusing on the collar as the perfect place to add a little extra adornment. As modern fabrics become more intricate and embellished, the trend for high necklaces (chokers and collars) has grown stronger.
Chokers are defined as short necklaces (typically 14 – 16” for women, 15 – 17” for men) worn high on the neck, not resting on the trapezius muscles between the neck and shoulders. Collar necklaces are slightly longer (usually roughly 16 – 18”), but still short, typically resting along the collar bones.
The classic Rivière is essential for every fine jewelry collection. Sometimes also called a “tennis necklace,” the Rivière is a single row of continuous diamonds or gemstones worn high across the neck. These necklaces are often graduated, meaning that the stones get smaller as they go behind the neck.
Popularized in Europe in the 1800s, this classic necklace is a wardrobe essential and often a go-to for adorning cocktail dresses, turtlenecks, and black-tie attire. Picchiotti has a number of diamond tennis necklaces featuring different shapes of diamonds, such as round diamonds or baguettes and in different lengths, some graduated, some not.
The standard pearl strand is another must for a fine jewelry wardrobe. No longer restricted to the neck, pearl strands are being worn in many new and exciting ways – draped in the hair, worn across the waist as a belt, hanging below a jacket (like a pocket watch chain), or traveling down the spine as a backlace. To stand out from the crowd, consider a short pearl necklace like Picchiotti’s “Essentially Color” pearl necklace featuring diamonds and white (South Sea), black (Tahitian), and golden pearls.
Picchiotti also offers incredibly versatile short reversible necklaces with different designs on each side; for example, diamonds on one side and gold on the other. These offer more ways to wear and add two must-have necklaces to the wardrobe with only one purchase. Picchiotti also creates high jewelry necklaces in diamonds and superlative gemstones.
The Swirl necklace, for example, is a timeless diamond design with a swirl motif that can be worn with a wide variety of fashions. It can be purchased with a similar style of earrings for a contemporary demi-parure. Parures, once popular among the elite in the 19th and early 20th centuries, consist of suites of jewelry intended to be worn together. The matchy-matchy look is making a comeback (Veranda Oct 2024) in 2025, but with only a couple of matching pieces as opposed to an entire ensemble, hence the term demi-parure.
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